6th December 2008
Trewavas Head - Main Cliff
Joy - S 4a - Lead
Sams Indirect Finish to Bending Chimney- VS 5a - Second
Side Step - HS 4b - Lead
I first tried Joy about 4 years ago when I first started climbing, spending an inordinate amount of time hanging on just below the bottom ledge. Of course I eventually fell off. A year later, with much more determination I returned to do exactly the same thing. It was incredibly frustrating because I had climbed 'harder' climbs according to the guides, but could not get my head around Joy's bottom section. Both of these early attempts were on a top rope as well.
This time I came back to lead it. It is still a tricky move, climbing up to the flake and then rocking over onto the slab. It's actually easier to keep going on the flake, but I did it according to the guide. A series of small moves using little footholds saw me up and even though I was a bit nervy ( the legacy of Tony) I found the climb great and really enjoyed it.
But it was up to Joe to do the lead of the day with an onsite of Sam's thingy.... The bottom section is straight forward but once up at the crack it becomes a little more serious. The 5a move is a committing step up from the ledge into the crack. You dont know how easy its going to be, but all the holds are there with a grewat opportunity to layback and rest part way through. As someone commented, its not long enough in the end, but it was a bold gutsy lead from Joe. As the second I found it great, but I would cos I'm on the easy end of the rope.
Sams Indirect Finish to the left and Side Step to the right. Both verical cracks.
I'd always wanted to do Side Step and took my opportunity to give it a go. It was in the end slightly disappointing, mainly I think because it's not in the same league as Sam's. But the top section needs a bit of working out and its nice and exposed but with big jug holds. I rekon its a soft HS compared to some I've done. But fun never the less and I'm glad I gave it a go.
We had thought Trewavas might be busy because this was the first sunny day for a while and being a Saturday???? But no, we saw no other climbers all day and only a few passing spectaters. Once again another classic day out climbing. Will it ever end?
