26 September 2008
Chair Ladder
Pendulum Chimney - Severe 4b - Alt Lead
OK. So this has been a crap summer, but its making up for it now. Two weeks of proper weather and finally a chance to get out on the rock. Chair ladder was the obvious choice because of the tides. Chris and I had hoped to do a couple of routes but we were both suffering from minor hangovers and aches.
Pendulum chimney though is a great route. Lots of varied pitches and suprises. I led the first pitch which I think was the first two run together. The crack up to the top of the initial platform is sparsely protected but fairly straight forward. Still it was nervy for a first lead in a while. However, Chris's lead on the face pitch above was excellent. Hard going with lots of holds. But needed a steady head as placing gear was tough. This was way harder than 4a which is what the guidebook states. I think the pictures send you too far right and the actual route is up the small chimney on the left. Anyway, its great climbing and makes the route that much better.
The chimney which I led was awkward but nice climbing. The trick is not to get too sucked in. Theres plenty of protection so you can go with confidence.
By time we finished we were knacked, so we gave up on having a go at Seal Salb; the tide was a bit high too. Lunch was spent looking over the seal colony and watching them fish. Stunning scenery, stunning weather, stunning climb. I feel very lucky.
