2nd August 2008

Penberth
Hornet - VS 4c - Second
They do at that age - HVS 5a - Top Rope

Al had been asking to climb at Penberth for a while. The eternal challenge of the Hornet always there, a climb he had completed but with a little help. We also wanted to take the kayak out in the bay, so Elaine and H would be on that, me and Al climbing. Joe, who was looking to get outside, agreed to meet us there for a short session as well.

I'm starting to get fed up with 'Little Cornwall' which seems to be cropping up everywhere. First its access to the coast path and deliberate obstruction of public footpaths, then its access to the water itself. At Porth and the Newquay beaches the lifeguards tell you that you cant launch a kayak because its hrd hulled and dangerous. Well, no its not actually. Its no more dangerous than someone picking up a rock on the beach. However in the wrong hands both can be dangerous. It should not be about prohibition, it should be about education. I spend a lot of time in the ocean and I know where I can go sfaely without endangering anyone and where I shouldnt go and yet I get treated the same as someone who is clueless. Its legislation to the lowest common denominator and its crap.

Now at Penberth, they have banned the use of the slipway to all but the local fishing co operative. This includes recreational boats such as kayaks, scuba divers and anything else thats not a fishing boat. So how does that work. What right does anyone have to dictate who can use the slipway. There is not even a way to pre arrange a launch. Its just unavailable. Yet again, an attempt at exclusivity.

Now having vented my frustration here I will concede a little to the opposing view. If idiots didnt let there dogs foul every area near a parking spot, walk across fields and private land, leave litter and park their cars in front of farmers gates then maybe the country community wouldnt be so defensive about everything. Equally the 'Little Cornwall' needs to sort its attitude of no 'oik's near my house'.

Anyway, back to important matters. Elaine and H decamped on the rocks and Joe led the Hornet making a good job of it, but finding protection puzzling as I had when I led it. Al finally cleaned the Hornet top to bottom and was chuffed.

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Then on to the HVS which I wanted to check for protection. Its got plenty, although it needs to be placed carefully and there are a couple of tense sections. Its going to be a lead for me before the summer is out. I'm going to prepare a sling and crab on the top chimney as this will be the belay and as far as I can see there is no pro here. I wont use it but I want it there. Again Al climbed it with style and good technique making the crux traverse look easy.

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The day ended overcast, but worthwhile. Couldnt find Elaine or H as they thought the car had been nicked and walked about two miles looking for it. I had hid it behind a hedge!