12th July 2008
Bosigran - Seaward Cliff
Ding - VS 4c 4b - Lead
Belle - VS 4b, 4c, 4c, 5a - Alt Lead (P3 & P4)
There turned out to be seven of us heading for the Seaward cliff at Bosi. Chris, Joe and I met up with some of his friends and we set up below Ding on the large ledge.
Joe and I had looked at Ding last time we were here, but ended up on Dong, so we went straight for the VS. Chris was gearing up for Black Slab; Liz planned to lead it, but had not climbed at Bosi before so it was a good trial before having a go. Kevin joined our group of myself and Joe.
Ding is a great climb. The first overhang is tricky (Picture above shows someone about to tackle the first overhang) so you have to search around a bit and get high up. Then the holds are there. The second overhang looks harder but again if you keep moving up the holds are there. This is probably one of the best pitches I've led (good gear) and fantastic moves. Pitch two is easier, although we did the spike instead of the groove to the left, but finished over the overhang. Kevin and Joe's smiles said it all.
Meanwhile Chris was having fun leaving bits of gear in the horizontal groove above the belay at Black slab (Joe's gear in fact) which Joe kept eyeing as other clinbers passed it and used it. Chris also gave us a demonstration of rope chucking. Put my efforts to shame as he launched the rope for at least 20ft three times in a row. His friendly wave told us how he felt.
Joe then had a go at Dung. Except he didnt. The Edwards book shows Dung following the same line as Belle in the climbers guide. The climbers guide describes Dung completely differently. Si it should have been a HS 4b, a grade above Joe's previous lead. Instead he embarked on Belle a VS 4c, with a hard second pitch up the angled crack. A great climb and very exposed on the crack moves. A ballsy lead.
We didnt know it at the time but we ran P1 and 2 together and P3 and 4 together. I had a go at 3 and 4. The top pitch is described as a bouldering move at 5a, but it seems high and exposed for that. It is probably the hardest move I've done on a lead. Protection is there but low down, so you'll land on the slab below but not roll off. Takes abit of working out and its steep. Fantastic, gave me such a buzz.
So Joe and I bolted off so he could stuff a few chickens down him, leaving Chris, Nicky, Carl and all to enjoy the setting sun. All in all a brilliant day.
Looks like a great day!