10th May 2008
St Loy
Crescendo - VS 5a - Alt Lead P1
Tingaloy - HS 4b - Second
Cenopod Corner - HS 4b - Lead This was probably one of the best days climbing I've ever had. Take away the fact that everything is in bloom and Cornwall is showing off big time, the climbing was brilliant.
Two VS's, both on the tough side and two tricky Hard Severe's challenged us throughout the day.
We had arrived after a vivid walk down to the crag, with wild flower meadows full of colour and the gorse bright yellow. We set up on Sloe Steel, after shredding my rope on the abb down (the only downer of the day - I'm getting a proper ab rope).
This was a climb that gets tougher the further up you go. The final move is tricky, I got through it via a layback, but the protection is good throughout. Some books rate it 5a but its not as tough as Crescendo which is also a 5a.
We tackled this next with Chris taking on the corner groove. I remembered this was tricky last time we did it and Chris had to make a balls'y move up into the chimney, which he did really well. Very impressive! The bottom half of Crescendo is sustained, but manageable. Again, as with Sloe Steel its well protected throughout. We belayed right below the chimney to minimise the chance of hitting the shelf below due to rope stretch. The guests on the ledge were very beautiful and this must be one of the best views of any belay point.
With these under our belts, we moved to the East side of the crag to tackle Tingaloy and Cenopod Corner. Chris despatched the first and this time I made the bottom moves (not wet this time) on Cenopod Corner. Its still strenuous and the whole climb requires hard work. Lots of jamming which my left hand and arm told me about in the bath that night. I would add that Cenopod Corner is not easy to protect on the top third. A big cam is useful.
Walking back to car totally exhausted we couldnt help but think it had been a day full of soul. Next trip we're on for an HVS and I fancy Harmony.
Good effort! If you are looking for an HVS at ST loy, supercruise is IMO very easy for the grade - I found it much easier than those horrible offwidths on the left of the crag -HVS 4c suggests either v sustained or bold but it was neither, though having a load of mediun sized cams useful for the top bits.
ChrisH