2nd May 2008
Pordenack Point
Zeke's Route- HS 4b - Lead
Nut Route - Severe 4a - Second
Vietnamerica - E1 5b - TR
Swiss Route - HS 4b - TR (escape route)
The weathger forecasters are rubbish and thats official. All week its been showing as rain and today Chris and I were cooked over at Pordenack. What was to be a mooch around checking out new climbs turned into a great day of leading and toproping.
After a cool ab in, first up it was Zeke's Route. A great route, but hard to protect on the crux move up into the niche. It makes the move all the harder knowing that all you have is a crappy nut between you and a long fall. Made me nervous as I spent ages looking for a placement that wasnt there. As it was the move was a bit off balance so I was pleased to get through it in the end. Overall a challenging route for me.
The sun shone all day with the exception of an hour around lunch. The seals were out watching us intently and fishing in the cove just behind us. Its a beautiful place, remote and distant from the trappings of normal life. I feel lucky whenever I go to places like this.
Then on to Nut Route another great climb which Chris lead. Again more difficult than it looks, but with great moves. It follows a crackline before an airy move across to a ledge. Well worth its stars.
Hving had lunch in the best restaurant in the south, we set about top roping Vietnamerica, which Chris and I both climbed clean. Tough, but all the holds are there and some good protection as well. Maybe one for us to try a lead on.
We finished on Swiss Route, which we didnt know was Swiss Route. Good climbing, but dodgy pro. Glad I didnt lead this one instead of Zeke. The rock gets crumbly towards the top. Good fun, but I might skip a future lead.
Amazing day out and some interesting advice from Lands End above.
