4th April 2008
Cribba Head
Harder - VS 4C - Lead
Kernyck - HS 4b - Second
Boysen's Cracks - E2 5c - TR
Boysens Groove - E3 5c - TR (dnf)
The usual drizzle and bleak conditions greeted us for the start of what was to be a great days climbing. As we drove south things brightened up as they normally do and by time we hit St Buryan the weather was dry and the boys had woken up enough to want a pastie. These didnt make it further than the park up at Penberth. This was Chris's first trip out for a while and Cribba seemed a good choice as I also knew the boys would enjoy it there as well.
I had been eying up 'Harder' the last time we were here, so it was a plunge straight into a VS, only my second lead at this grade. It was a brilliant climb. Hard jams for the opening half to the top of a pillar and then a short traverse onto the main face. Dogged by badly behaving nuts and a knot that caught itself on the top of the pillar it was still exciting and great fun. One I'll no doubt do again now I know how it works.
We then moved onto Boysens Cracks (again). As usual it proved tricky, the opening off balance a pinchy moves very akward. I was pleased this time to climb it clean to the top crack. The top rope unforunately got in the way here but I'm sure this is a possible lead for me in the near future. I might try it whilst placing gear nexttime and see how it goes.
Chris lept into his first lead of the year on Keryck, a great corner climb and worthy of its star rating. The crux is the top sequence which proves tricky, needing a bit of thought particularly for placing gear.
As a finale we tried an E3, Boysens Groove. A hard start involves laying back of a slippery crack to make what looks like easier going at about 3 -4 metres. Chris shredded his hands but almost made it, as did Al. I unfortunately struggled to get further thana few feet. One for when I'm fresher I think.
The huge seal swimming about in the bay added a great distraction for H who finished by climbing to the top of the buttress. Many of the photos are curtesy of H who also spotted the hidden robot onthe bluff opposit.
Transformers!!
Good effort on Harder - its quite er hard! Some interesting climbs at the LH side of the crag - Unlike Siobhan is a soft touch HVS though not well protected whilst I found bottleneck VS5a desparate. HAve you looked at any ofthe tidal stuff below the crag? HAve never got round to it myself.
ChrisH